Australian heritage homes—from Queenslanders to Victorian terraces—are undeniably magnetic. However, beyond the charm lies a reality that many new owners forget: upgrading an existing building involves a complex web of bureaucratic obstacles. Before you pick up a sledgehammer, you must navigate the specific permits, heritage overlays, and safety codes required to bring an old home into the modern era.
Navigating Heritage Overlays and Character Protection
You must check your Section 32 (Vendor’s Statement), or go onto the planning map of your local Council before you have drafted a single plan. It is necessary to determine whether your house is under a Heritage Overlay.
When your home is on the roll-call, or even when it is within a “Character Preservation Area,” you do not just have a home; it is a part of local history. This is typical in established suburbs in Sydney, Melbourne, and Adelaide. That does not imply that you cannot renovate, but simply that the facade (and roofline) is highly secured.
The thing is that in such cases a common building permit is not sufficient. The Heritage Overlay will probably also trigger a special Planning Permit. The heritage advisor of the Council will consider all the details, from the colour of the paint you use to the type of timber sash windows you want installed. When you come across a jewel that requires Heritage house restoration in full scale, then you must play by the rules. It is not to a building surveyor you are answering; it is to preservationists who are all too concerned to preserve the rhythm and history of the streetscape.
Planning Permits vs. Building Permits: Understanding the Difference
There are actually two stages of approval which are practically the same in Australia, which people tend to mix up.
- Planning Permit (DA): This is provided by your local Council. It relates to what you are creating and its impact on your surroundings and your neighbours. Does it block sunlight? Is it too tall? Is it within the character of the neighbourhood?
- Building Permit (Construction Certificate): This is issued by a Registered Building Surveyor (private or Council). It covers the way that you are building. Is it structurally sound? Does it meet the fire rating? Is the tread height of the stair correct?
In small internal renovations in a non-heritage house, you may possibly not need to complete the Planning Permit and can proceed with the Building Permit. However, when you are expanding the footprint or even when you are adding an extra storey, you tend to require both.
Structural Renovations: Permits for Load-Bearing Walls and Roofs
The rule of thumb is always quite simple: if it is holding the house up, you must get a permit to touch it.
Most older Australian houses have choppy structures with a central corridor. Of course, you would like to crack them open. In a weatherboard house constructed in 1920, however, it does not always show which walls are load-bearing. I have seen DIYers declare a wall to be a timber partition because the wall sounded hollow, only to discover that it is supporting the roof.
A Building Permit will usually be required for:
- Eliminating or modifying load-bearing walls.
- Fixing the foundations (re-blocking or restumping).
- Altering the roofline or roofing material (e.g., substituting heavy tiles with a light one like tin).
- Constructing a deck or a verandah (particularly higher than a certain height above the ground, usually not less than 800mm-1m according to your state).
To receive them, you must have drawings that have been stamped by a structural engineer. It sounds costly, but it is less expensive than having your ceiling fall three centimetres next winter.
Compliance Certificates: Asbestos, Electrical, and Plumbing Safety
It is here that the builders of old concealed their sins. You might believe that you just need a permit for the “big stuff,” but skilled trades demand compliance certificates as well.
- Asbestos: If your home was constructed or renovated before 1990, assume it has asbestos. It is in eaves, the sheeting of the bathroom, the floor coverings (vinyl), and also the insulation. In most states, removal of more than 10 square metres of asbestos requires a particular permit or a licensed removalist. It is not merely a failure to follow the permit; it is a serious health issue.
- Electrical: You cannot just start rewiring your older home when it still has cloth-wrapped wiring or old ceramic fuses. To do the work you need a licensed electrician (sparky) and they have to provide a Certificate of Electrical Safety (CES) or Compliance Certificate upon completing the work. This demonstrates that the work is in compliance with AS 3000 standards.
- Plumbing: Relocating a toilet or adding an ensuite? One should have a licensed plumber who will present a Compliance Certificate. The pipes which serve older houses are usually earthenware (terracotta) and they are often broken by tree roots. The line to the mains is usually one that you have to replace when you begin a renovation.
Zoning, Setbacks, and Site Coverage for Extensions

Do you intend an extension? Or perhaps a granny flat? Zoning comes in at this point. There are setbacks to every block, and they are invisible, meaning that you are not allowed to build beyond the setbacks without authorization. These lines are tricky in old suburbia. In other cases, the house may already be over the line (non-conforming).
When you wish to construct an extension which gets too near the fence, or to construct a second storey which looks down on the pool of your neighbour, you are walking into the area of overshadowing and overlooking by-laws.
It is a rigorous process. There are occasions when the difficulty involved in adding to an old house is more challenging than the planning involved in custom build homes, because you are attempting to unite the setbacks of the 1920s with modern ResCode regulations. It must be able to fulfill the ratio and solar access requirements of the permeable garden area of the day.
The Owner-Builder Permit: Requirements and Responsibilities
One last word of caution to the enterprising DIYer. In Australia, any time the value of the work is above a certain value (usually between about $10,000 and $16,000 in various states) and you are not employing a registered builder to handle the entire job, you have to seek an Owner-Builder Permit.
This consists of undertaking a course (which is usually a white card and legal responsibilities module). It makes you legally accountable in connection with the warranty of the work upon the assumption that you sell the house in the time period of about 6.5 years.
The Risks of Illegal Building Work: Insurance and Resale Issues
I get it. The Council is slow. The fees add up. You may be tempted to simply do the job only during the weekends and hope that the neighbours will not call the ranger.
The following is the reason why it is a horrible idea:
- The Section 32 Nightmare: When you do sell one day, the conveyancer of the buyer will request permits for that deck or bathroom. In case you are unable to deliver them, the customer is free to withdraw the contract, or insist on a huge discount to offset the loss.
- Insurance Denial: In case of electrical work done by unqualified individuals, if a fire breaks out, or plumbing bursts unauthorizedly and floods your house, your home and contents insurance has a valid legal ground to deny your claim. You could be left with just a shell of a mortgage.
- The Building Order: In case an inspector of the Council passes by and finds a skip bin in your driveway without the permit on it, he/she may issue a Stop Work order. They can even make you destroy what you have built when it is not according to code.
One of the most satisfying projects that one can do is to bring an older Aussie home to life. You are saving us a part of our architectural heritage. However, that character must be backed up by the current safety standards.
Do not think of permits as plain fundraising by the Council. Take them as your life insurance. They are the evidence that your new old house will not go down, is sound, and is prepared to last another century.
